Showing posts with label safety. Show all posts
Showing posts with label safety. Show all posts

Saturday, April 13, 2019

Why and How Glass Breaks

I spent far too much time last week contemplating why we apply pressure on the opposite side of a score to break glass, and had to do a few more ‘GLASS IS NOT A LIQUID’ screeds. I decided this was worth a blog post. THE SCIENCE OF WHY AND HOW GLASS BREAKS.

1 - What Glass Is!

Please, repeat after me, GLASS (clap emoji) IS NOT (clap emoji) A LIQUID (clap emoji)! In grade school we learned that there are three (or four) phases of matter, right? Bad news, Mrs. Thompson lied to you. Ok, didn’t lie, just grossly oversimplified. 4th graders probably won’t understand the degradation of neutrons.

Solid – A uniform and dense configuration of tightly-bound molecules gives us rock, wood, ham sandwich, our skulls, etc.

Liquid – Less tightly bound and it’ll slosh around in your whiskey glass

Gas – Freer still, and it’ll fill up a room or otherwise expand to fill a container.

You might have also gotten to Plasma, which is the bright flash of lightning during a storm that ruins your day if it hits you.

Glass doesn’t fit neatly into any of these, so over the years various stories have developed. It must be a liquid, it must be a solid, etc. The truth is there are a lot more than 3 or 4 phases of matter, and glass is in a category of its own. It’s an ‘amorphous solid’ but that puts it in its own category along with degraded neutrons and other more unique things.

1b – Glass is NOT A LIQUID, pt 2.

The amount of time it would take for a glass object to ‘melt’ is something like ‘the age of the universe’. There is a very common misconception that old window glass is thicker on the bottom because it has flowed that way. If that were true, we wouldn’t have glass objects from Ancient Egypt and Rome. People wouldn’t have heirloom glasses older than grandma’s house with the weird windows.

The reason there is a thicker part to the window is that older methods of making glass sheets (e.g. the crown and cylinder methods) produced a sheet of irregular thickness. It’s some kind of ‘common sense’ to put the thicker part down for stability, but it’s not a rule and contrary examples exist.

1c – Wait, you didn’t really explain what glass is

Glass is solid, in the common sense that it’s not a liquid, gas, or plasma at room temperature (on earth, etc etc). But its structure is very disorganized, which is why it has similarities to a liquid. If its molecules were more orderly you would have "devitrified glass" ("de-glassed glass"), which qualifies as a ceramic.

Because of that attribute, a sheet of glass has strains within in. Various internal pulls and pushes and twists, so to speak. When glass is annealed a great deal of the stresses are able to resolve themselves, but not all. This is also why glass doesn’t have a grain like wood.

[Update: I thought it might be good to note that while current science identifies glass as a separate phase of matter, earlier academic documents would refer to it as an "amorphous solid" and, going earlier still, as a liquid. I believe that was accurate (for the time) using a very scientific definition of liquid as opposed to the common understanding. However, "Glass is NOT a liquid!" is much more concise than "Glass does NOT melt into new shapes over the course of one or two hundred years because it is not a liquid in the layperson's meaning of the term which has been superseded anyway by scientific progress and the inexorable march of time!"]

2 – How glass breaks, unsupervised

As is usually the case, force likes to take the Path of Least Resistance through glass. If a substance has a grain, like wood, you may be able to guess how it would split if hit with a general force. But in the case of glass, there is no grain and the stresses are mostly invisible[0]. As a result if you hit a piece of glass the fracture lines will follow the path of least resistance taking advantage of these faults and weaknesses until it reaches the edge of the sheet.

It's interesting to note that research (source below) shows you can apply less force than is needed to run a score if you apply it for a longer amount of time, even as much as 50% less. The authors note that if glass is under strain, it REALLY needs to be protected or minor damage may destroy it.

3 – How glass breaks, supervised

All we are doing when we break a piece of glass is coaxing the path of least resistance to be a route we want. I’d say ‘choose’ but if you’ve spent more than five minutes breaking glass you know it’s more of a coaxing and/or tearful pleading.

A typical modern glass cutter has either a steel (cheap) or tungsten carbide (much better) wheel that is shaped like a chisel. Incidentally the angle of that ‘chisel’ MAY have an influence on the cutting. I had never ever heard of this before until someone mentioned it (from a Wikipedia article). That article refers to a book on automotive glass and says a more sharply angled wheel cuts thicker glass better, from 120° - 154°. I don't work with industrial glasses so maybe that is common knowledge to them, but 154° is oddly specific to me.

Bob Beranek; Ann Schuelke (1 August 2011). The Complete Guide to Auto Glass Installation. AuthorHouse. p. 336.

Both steel and tungsten carbide are harder than glass, and so they are able to bite into the surface of a sheet. Carbide is just much harder than steel, so it is more durable. Usually steel wheels are found on cheap cutters you get at a hardware store. Carbide wheels are what you would expect from a specialty store and most anything directed at the stained glass market. Carbide cutting wheels also almost always have an oil reservoir in the handle.

Why oil? Its more to do with the tool than the glass. The stress of scoring glass builds up heat, which could eventually mess with the tempering of the metal wheel. It won’t generally be enough to cause thermal shock in the glass, but little glass particles are also caught in the deposited oil and that’s a good thing.

Fun fact, researchers (source below) discovered that the pressure applied to your cutter has an S-shaped effect on the force required to run the score (that is, break the glass). Once you reach the minimum force needed, adding pressure (pushing down your cutter harder) actually increases the torque needed to break it... until you blow past that zone in which case more pressure makes it easier again.

3b – Bringing it together

When we ‘cut’ glass we are actually introducing a known fault line into the glass in the hope and expectation that, when flexed, the path of least resistance will follow our score. And we all know that, sometimes, it doesn’t. Maybe a curve was too sharp and the PoLR was a straight line. Maybe a seed (bubble) was present that coaxed the line askew at a point, and then the PoLR is to follow the new angle instead of bending back to the score. Those invisible stresses can also be at fault, because glass is a temperamental mistress and lives off our tears. Wait, what? </Bitter Glazer>

4 – So, why DO we press from the opposite side of the cut.

It bothered me that it made sense in my mind, but I couldn’t explain it in words. I actively chewed on this for the better part of a week, thinking in terms like a race track. If you’ve seen one, you probably noticed that the starting line is staggered, and the closer to the center you are the further back you begin. This is because the center ring is smaller, and shorter, than the outer rings so that racer has to be further back to get the same distance. I was trying to leverage that rationale to explain breaking a flat sheet of glass and it didn’t quite work until I stopped thinking about a donut-shape.

 Not my best drawing, but showing that running pliers (or your thumbs) applying pressure on the cut effectively applies pressure to squeeze the score line. You might get the glass to break but it will be uncontrolled and unguided and probably isn't following your score. Note that the score is magnified A LOT in this drawing.

Another little sketch showing a greatly magnified score under no pressure, some sort of light pressure, and finally breaking pressure.


Incidentally this CMoG blog post has an even better graphic of this I found two days later, using foam.

5 – Bonus: Why your hand position is so important when cutting

I originally learned to cut glass by holding my cutter like a pencil. It's not quite that relaxed or the wheel wouldn't be able to contact the glass, but similar. I also noticed my accuracy was never where I wanted it to be, and I was always grinding pieces, finding new ways they didn't fit my pattern, grinding other areas of the piece, and eventually throwing it into scrap. After I began teaching with Molly I learned from her the "peace sign" grip that is pretty universally called for in professional-grade books.


  

My hand holding my favorite  cutter in a comically relaxed pencil grip, a much more likely pencil grip, and finally a 'peace sign' grip. The camera was not straight on, but you can still clearly see how the first two are further off-center than the last.

 I haven't found solid research into this, but I strongly believe that when you hold your cutter off-center, the score itself (and the associated "microfractures" if you believe that idea) are also at an angle. Least resistance being what it is, I suspect it would be more like a J-shaped curve than an actual diagonal, but you end up with a cut that is not perpendicular to the surface of the glass, what I know as a shelf [1]. Shelves are ridiculously sharp and seem to disappear if you even bring them near a grinder. I think that this is why my accuracy was poor for a long time;




You can see the 'shelf' on this piece, right above the little bump. It took me seven tries to hold a cutter wrong and get this piece

Holding the cutter off-center isn't going to give you a shelf every single time, or I would never have lasted this long in the hobby, but for me there was a major reduction in shelves and an increase in accuracy when I learned to use the better grip. Shelves are ridiculously sharp and will cut through your copper foil and your fingers effortlessly, not to mention (again) mess with the size of your piece. Probably a half-dozen times I have cut myself on a shelf-y piece and watched the delay as my skin realizes it's been cut, recovers from its shock for a second, and THEN starts bleeding. 

Allegedly neurosurgeons use obsidian scalpels because glass can be 100x sharper than steel. I believe it can be sharper than steel but about a year ago when I tried to investigate this, it seemed these scalpels were only an experiment.

6 - Really Cool Bonus: Glass Heals

I had heard Molly talk about this fact one summer while we were teaching. I'll be honest, I didn't believe it. How can a glass score heal and become more difficult to run if you let it sit for a few days? While doing other research, however, I found an academic paper from 1937 (Info below) that tested and proved the concept.

Their research showed that if you scored glass and let it sit, the amount of force needed to run that score increases over time, maxing out around 16 days. By the third day it's done the vast majority of its 'healing', however. Their hypothesis is that over the course of days the innate stresses in the glass will work themselves out a bit and reduce the effectiveness of your work. 

In conclusion, glass has a number of odd behaviors that bring to mind the expression "wibbly wobbly timey wimey", we work with the glass and beg it to do what we want, and windows aren't melting because GLASS IS NOT A LIQUID.

--------------------


[0] - There are polarized filters you can look through that will show the strains, but I don't THINK they are practical for non-scientists and I'm pretty sure they aren't the same thing that lets you tell which side of float glass hit the tin.

[1] - I am finally reaching that age where I can't quite remember whether I came up with this term myself or if I learned it from Norma/Danielle at GlassLink a decade+ ago.


Sources:

https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/fact-fiction-glass-liquid/

https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/is-glass-really-a-liquid/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phase_(matter)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/State_of_matter#Glass

https://io9.gizmodo.com/the-glass-is-a-liquid-myth-has-finally-been-destroyed-496190894

http://users.monash.edu.au/~ralphk/glass-cutting.html
(I'm not fully convinced on several concepts Mr. Klimek writes about, such as using spit to help run a score or the idea of microfractures, and we now know that glass is not a liquid but the anecdotal information is entertaining.)

"Concerning the Cutting of Glass" by MERTON W. JONES AND JULIAN M. BLAIR
Journal of Applied Physics 8, 627 (1937); https://doi.org/10.1063/1.1710352

https://blog.cmog.org/2015/06/03/part-2-why-does-glass-break/

Sunday, June 1, 2014

Homebrew Lightbox

I've been asked a few times about building lightboxes. For ease of reference I'm putting my directions here. They tend to be pricey, in my experience, but I built mine cheaply in a college dorm and have never felt the need to upgrade (the want, yes, the need? No.)

It's not pretty but it IS strong enough for me to lean on the surface while I work and portable enough for me to haul to events and classes!

Two 1"x6"x4' "standard" boards - 3.49 each.
3-4 "24"x30" Clear Glass Sheet" -
1 2" aluminum corner bracket (Optional - I use it for aligning/holding the surface)
1 Sheet of plexiglass (lexan, etc).
1+ fluorescent "kitchen light" at Walmart (I use two 12" and 1 18", models that chain off one another)
1 white garbage bag
Mirror shards/aluminum foil (Optional)

Cut, or have your lumber yard cut, the two boards in half so you have 4 boards of 2' length. Assemble them into a box (I chose a "pinwheel" format where the end of one board butts the side of another). Once sturdy, if desired attach the corner bracket to one corner for aligning the surface. Place aluminum foil or mirror pieces along the bottom to reflect light, if desired. Place the light(s) inside the box and run the cord under the edge to your wall outlet. Place one glass sheet on the top. Cover with a garbage bag (can be folded in half or cut open depending on how bright you need). Place the rest of the glass on top, then the plexiglass sheet. The glass provides strength and the plexiglass protection (for all those times your glasscutter goes right off the edge of the piece you are working). Turn on the lights and you are ready to go!

Because of the location of my outlets beneath and behind my work benches, I bought a remote controlled power strip (~$15 I think) at Menards. This lets me turn on my lightbox (and by extension my grinder and soldering iron) without climbing around on the floor beneath my work benches. You know, where all the glass dust and shards fall. I strongly recommend them!

[Permission to reprint is granted to any/all SCA publications, physical or digital, with minor editing as long as attribution is given and a copy sent to me! For Facebook, etc, please link here rather than reposting.]


Wednesday, April 30, 2014

No more BS about Pb

A bit of an "aside." I've had the unpleasant experience of listening to several heated discussions on Facebook about lead safety. I've had multiple intelligent friends speak to me about concerns about their glasswork and non-glass friends worried about my health and safety.

I am impressionable when it comes to medical matters, so a heated discussion on a wonderful Facebook group for glass artists left me a bit paranoid. At the time I spent a bit of money to build a better ventilation system, researched lead safety extensively, and discussed it with everyone I knew. I had been made to believe, however briefly, that my love of glass was killing all of my loved ones who set foot in my house.

Not happening. Today's post is going to cover some lead safety "Fact or Crap" items.

The big Fact: The significant threat is ingestion, not inhalation.

Think of lead much like water. Is ice contributing to the humidity of your air (are you inhaling it?) Yes, technically. A tiny portion of the ice can sublimate straight into water vapor. But it's so little it's insignificant. Is liquid water sitting in a glass adding to your humidity? Yes, very slowly. If you want to raise the humidity in a room, how do you do it? A pot of boiling water works much better. Lead is little different... actually, MORE difficult than water.

Lead melts at 621.43 (°F). At that point it's equivalent to liquid water (as far as our inhalation of it). Lead doesn't boil until 3180 °F. We are quickly melting it and it cools and resolidifies. You aren't at a risk of inhaling lead fumes unless you are smelting it. If you solder and you see fumes/smoke fly in the air that is not solder, that is flux. Flux is often resin based (check your bottle and your MSDS) and/or a chemical formula that will not poison you. You CAN irritate your sinuses and lungs, and cough for a day or two (at least the brand I use, Old Masters, can't poison me unless I confuse it's blue color for Romulan Ale and take a swig).

Now, as you work on it you get it all over your hands. That's why you must wash your hands immediately after working. You want to get lead poisoning, lick your fingers. I've cast lead into cames now, it didn't generate fumes (and incidentally my stovetop could barely melt the lead).

Some of us paint, and we use lead-based paints. Like a lampworker or glassblower using frit/powder, it is more of a concern. However, the powdered pigment isn't like flour and so on. It's a "heavy" powder, filled with glass fluxes and heavy minerals. While it is a powder, I've noticed minimal "floating dust" when I opened the sealed jar. I take a palette knife's worth and put on a palette with no noticeable cloud. Of course then we promptly mix it with binders and mediums and such and it's never again in dust form. I do own a mask that I can wear if I am concerned (and I use it for my silver stain mixes, which DO like to make dust clouds). Otherwise... as rare as I actually mix a fresh batch of paint... it's not a serious concern for me.

Now, for three "real world" arguments. The owner of the local glass shop, a woman who is as generous with her knowledge as she is skilled at a workbench, discussed lead safety with me a few months ago after a Facebook thread made me panicky and I bought ducting to build a ventilation rig. She informed me that in 30+ years of doing stained glass she has occasionally had a blood lead level test run, and it has never shown anything abnormal.

In the aforementioned FB thread, the owner of a professional studio mentioned she had an employee once who did test for elevated lead. Turned out he hadn't been changing out of his work clothes at work, and had been driving home in them after being around soldering and lead 8 hours a day. THAT lead to an "elevated" level of blood lead! Not lead poisoning.

So, in an effort to maybe put this to bed, both for others and for my own paranoia, I just went to the hardware store three hours ago and bought a big pack of lead tests. Instant Lead Testing ("If it's red, There's lead!" it says. "If it's red, you dead!" I thought) by Lead Check. A pack of plastic tubes with two ampules you crush to mix the solution. You then apply it to surfaces and If It's Red(tm) You're gonna have a bad time, mmkay?

Test 1 - My computer desk. I do my pattern work on my computer and have been known to absentmindedly click print while working on glass. Oh, I also eat here and spend 10-16 hours a day near this desk. You can imagine why it was site number 1. I dumped yellow testing liquid all over the desk, several important keys, and the left button of my mouse. Not a hint of red.

Test 2 - Other common surfaces in my house. After all, as some people keep trying to say to us, lead vapors are floating around to kill us and everyone we love. My couch? Nope. My dining room table? Nope. If you are unfamiliar with my home, it's an open floor plan, no walls. Couch armrest, kitchen counter, all ok.

Test 3 - What the heck, is this thing on? Solder and my (paint-encrusted) palette knife. Both came back brilliant dark red (oddly the solder took several seconds and the palette knife's droplets turned red practically as soon as I thought about applying). I guess they work!

Test 4 - My workbench. I tried the surface of my primary work bench. Yellow!
Test 5 - The plastic top of my lightbox. Tried several spots, all yellow!
Test 6 - The side of a plastic storage thing bordering my solder area. Yellow! This is about 1' from my soldering area.
Test 7 - The wall bordering my solder area. Permanent yellow staining of the paint, a foot from my soldering area.

Test 8 - The steel coil holder for my soldering iron, less than 1" away from the hot tip of the iron when it's on. YELLOW.
Test 9 - Dragging the thing through every cranny and coil above the soldering iron in that holder. FINALLY got some pink.... at the opening of the holder, which I hit every time I put the iron away without looking right at it. I guess that makes sense.



Edit: Test 10 - Tested the ceiling above my soldering area in several spots on a 2' line above the bench. YELLOW.

So, in short: Don't smelt lead from ore, don't lick your fingers, don't confuse your gin and tonic with your flux and wash your hands, kids!